Wednesday, March 31, 2021

Reasons to Love Ireland

It's St. Patrick's Day month, and what better time to post about the best things about the Emerald Isle?

I have visited this wonderful country three times, though my fourth attempt was foiled by Covid. Each time I've gone, I've fallen more in love with this island nation where my heart feels it belongs. Many of the people I've spoken with who have visited this country have expressed how much they love it too. So, what is it about Eire that makes it so special?

I'll be discussing my reasons for loving Ireland in no particular order, and, to be fair, will also list one aspect that I don't love. Please be advised that this will mostly focus on the Republic of Ireland, as I've only spent 4 days in Northern Ireland, which I loved just as much. If there's something about Ireland that stands out to you that you feel I've left out, feel free to comment below!

A Brief Overview of Ireland's Recent History

The Island of Ireland is split between four provinces and two countries: The provinces of Connacht, Leinster, and Munster, which comprise the Republic of Ireland, and Ulster, which is claimed as the separate Northern Ireland. The Republic, which is the country I've spent the most time in, is part of the European Union (EU), where they use the euro as their form of currency. Northern Ireland is considered to be part of the United Kingdom (UK) and uses the Great British Pound in their country.

For decades, these two countries experienced a time called "The Troubles," in which tension between them due to political and religious issues caused violent and non-violent protestations (Source: Britannica - The Troubles). The Troubles ended 1998 but is often referred to in Irish music, most popularly in U2's songs. The Netflix TV series, "Derry Girls," also follows teenagers growing up during this era.

Though there is still some political tension due to Brexit, the two countries are still living at peace with each other for the time being. There are many decisions that still need to be addressed, especially on the economical front for Northern Ireland, but it would appear both sides are hoping for a positive outcome. For a detailed report on what's happening, check out this report from Ireland's main news source, RTE.

As a female solo traveler, I can say that both countries are safe to travel alone. I have also witnessed a particular event first hand that was pointed out to me by the city tour guide when we were visited Derry. Our guide had served in the army during the time of the Troubles.

This picture is showing teenagers heading for a music festival called The Jika Jika Festival. Our guide said that what we were witnessing was historical because we were seeing Protestant and Catholic teenagers attending this festival together and not caring about their religious beliefs; something that wouldn't have been done during the time of the Troubles. I'm very happy to have captured this moment. Unfortunately, our main tour guide learned about it too late and couldn't score us tickets in time.

And now, on with the best reasons to love Ireland!

The Beauty

Anyone who's heard of Ireland and has seen pictures from any of its areas that it's a beautiful country. From its beaches and shoreline cliffs, to the wild and farmed lands, the mountain ranges, and even the barren reaches of the Burren, just about everywhere you look is breathtaking. 

Here's a section of the coastline along the Wild Atlantic Way and the Burren, west of Ballyvaughan

So instead of writing, I'm just going to let some of the many pictures I've taken speak for themselves.

Here's the famous Kylemore Abbey, but from the opposite direction the brochures display

I could post so many pictures here, but I'll try to stick with the best that I could find.

The waterfall at Glenbarrow, part of the Slieve Bloom Mountains

There are hundreds of areas you can hike that many tourists will never see because they're sticking with the more popular attractions or the scheduled events with their tour groups.

This is on the way to Hag's Head, the southernmost tip of the Cliffs of Moher

Even taking simple walks throughout the outlying areas of major cities or smaller villages can take your breath away!

Roscommon Castle, a lovely site that's bypassed by most tour companies. The town's had UFO sightings!

My first visit there I drove, and after that I only opted to take public transportation because I was too distracted by landscape.

Then again, driving also meant I could pull over whenever I wanted! Keem Bay was one such place!

Though sometimes, depending on the company you book your tour with, the guide will make unscheduled stops so that you can experience the beauty of the country that they know their groups will appreciate.

Here's a stop along the Wild Atlantic Way, not far from a filming location of Star Wars: The Last Jedi

Not to downplay the common tourist areas, they are popular for a reason! And well worth the stops!

This is the bay you pass on the way to the Giant's Causeway. That rock formation to the left is Humphrey the Camel

I have scads of pictures of these beautiful countries, and I wish I could share them all but alas, it would take too much time. So I will leave you with one last picture of the scenery, a hill above Killarney featuring part of the Ring of Kerry behind the trees.

Everyone wanted a picture there!

Its History

I did technically start with a little bit of history, but the real history of this country is everywhere you look. There are castles everywhere, and many can still be visited, while others have been converted into hotels!

This one is Dromoland Castle. Didn't stay there, but was allowed to look around!

But Ireland is more than its capitals. There's a running joke among the Irish that they're never won a war, but the resilience of this small country is incredible. Dublin City is home to so much history that there's probably a significant event that happened on every corner. This is also common in most of the major cities and even some of the smaller villages. 

You could speak to local guides, customer service representatives, and even people in the pubs and they can tell you random facts about their villages and towns that you won't easily find on the internet or in history books. One thing is certain: though there were many tragedies throughout this country's history, their resilience and survival throughout the centuries is something they are very proud of.

Northern Ireland also displays their history through murals across their cities. Many of these murals depict notable events during The Troubles, celebrate the lives of the freedom fighters who died trying to bring peace, and artwork displaying various peace icons.

Here's a cool fact: the Northern Irish consider Martin Luther King Jr. as one of their heroes!

There's also the Peace Wall in Belfast, which is comprised of several murals that people can write their names or an inspirational phrase on. Even celebrities have been known to write on this mural!

Here's an idea of how long this Peace Wall goes on for

Despite the fact that Ireland has a bit of a sad history, something notable happened just about anywhere you visit in the Republic or Northern Ireland. No matter where you go, you'll learn something new and interesting. 

The Food

Don't believe the myth that corned beef and cabbage is authentic Irish cuisine. It's not. That little tidbit aside, what exactly is Irish cuisine then?


Let's start with the traditional Irish breakfast. Most breakfasts consist of toast, beans, eggs, bacon, potatoes, black and white pudding, tomatoes, mushrooms, and bangers. The majority of the hotels you'll stay at will offer this breakfast, while the more expensive ones will offer more options, such as scones, pancakes, porridge, and waffles. The traditional Irish breakfast is filling, but after having the same thing over and over for a week, it starts to seem a little repetitive.

After that, much of their cuisine focuses on carb-heavy food. Bread is served at just about every meal, and potatoes are a major part of the Irish diet. Then their entrees tend to focus on meats and seafood. Stews made with beef or lamb are popular meals, and seafood chowders can be found throughout the country, but mostly along the coastal areas. If you aren't in the mood for stew, meat options can include pork, chicken, fish, and venison dishes. Burgers and other sandwich options are often available too.

Yes, I ate everything on this plate!

There is also a product that comes from Ireland that many Americans don't consider: dairy. With all the bread they serve, butter is also a very prominent item, and it's some of the best in the world! Of course, butter is made from cream, which comes from the Irish cows, who product some of the best dairy too! You'll enjoy one of the most refreshing glasses of milk you'll ever taste here. And there's ice cream everywhere! Even on the remote Aran Islands offshore, including Inishmore, you'll find an incredible ice cream shop!

One of the most remote ice cream shops you'll find: Paudy's!

The food here is very rich in flavor and tends to be very filling, but they also have no additives in their foods, which I suspect is why everything over there tastes better. Everything down to the coffee and orange juice to the simple greens in a salad have fuller flavor!

With such full flavors, can you imagine the desserts they have???

If you're one of those travelers who prefers to stick with American foods, or if you're vegan or lactose intolerant, there are options available to accommodate these diets. What surprised me most though were how many pizza parlors there were, and even burrito bars! 

You thought I was kidding? Found this one in Belfast!

Being a California girl who has access to some of the most authentic Mexican food north of the border, seeing Irish Mexican food in most of the major cities we visited was quite the shock! I still haven't tried it out, though I plan to the next time I go.

The food here may be filling, but when you're traveling, you're moving around so much that you usually work it off before your next meal. So enjoy that colcannon, or the fish and chips, and absorb the flavors!

The Pubs

Ever been to an Irish pub in America? Most tend to do a fine representation of an authentic Irish pub, but the one thing they can't duplicate is the feel. Most pubs in both the States and Ireland serve tasty and affordable food, have Guinness on tap along with other popular and local quaffs, have music playing, and often times a football (*coughit'scalledsocceroverherecough*) or rugby playing on a large TV screen.

Here's the interior of one such pub

The pubs in Ireland though, have something that the States can't duplicate: the environment. Irish pubs are more than just your average watering hole, it's a place where the people can enjoy themselves with their longtime, new, or unmet friends! Just about every pub you visit, even if you're all alone and stay that way, will still have a welcoming atmosphere. If you're alone in this country and start to feel alone, just find the local pub and have a drink or meal. Introvert or extrovert, just being around the people there will bring a sense of being at home.

One of the oldest pubs in Ireland, the Brazen Head, gives you an idea of how far from home you are

And fear not, you'll find a pub anywhere. One of the Irishmen I spoke to on one of my travels told me this little factoid about the towns in Ireland: "every Irish town will have a church, a post office, and a pub." There's no excuse to not go to one!

This was a pub and restaurant in Dingle we ate at. I can't remember the name, but it was down the street from the local Murphy's Ice Cream

I'm afraid I didn't have more pics of the pubs I went to, but next time I go I'll take more!

Guinness!

Guinness is probably the most recognized Irish company throughout the world, and with good reason. There is nothing like a freshly poured pint at the pub and just savoring that dark, smoky taste. It's a taste that is incapable of being captured anywhere else in the world. 

Here's a piece of Guinness artwork at the Storehouse

The canned stuff? Awful. The bottled? Better, but still not as great. Poured from a tap anywhere in the world? In the States, passable; anywhere else in the world, fairly good. But at its natural brewing home in Ireland, it's positively glorious.

You can even learn to pour your own pint at the Guinness storehouse!

As I mentioned with the food, it tends to be very filling and rich. Pairing this food with a Guinness enhances the experience of eating and drinking together in a truly unique way. It's almost as if half of the cuisine there was specifically tailored to be paired with Guinness. And no matter where you go, you'll find merch in every gift shop.

This is a table.

A Culture of Music

Did you know Ireland is the only country in the world whose national symbol is a musical instrument? It's true! Their national symbol is the harp. And since their national symbol is the harp, it would only be logical the music would play a huge part in their country.

I felt particularly proud of this pic

The pubs in Ireland tend to hire local musicians to perform in their venues, where often times they will play covers of popular music and traditional songs that everyone can sing along to. And you won't just find them in pubs, you'll find them in restaurants too, from high-scale to simple cafes.  

Didn't get this guy's name, but he was talented and very appreciative

Then you'll find the ones performing on the streets. Some of these singers and musicians will be promoting their own original music because they love what they do, or they're trying to make it in the music industry.

Yup, you'll even find xylophone players out here!

One thing is certain though: the music is an important part of life. When walking through major cities like Dublin or Galway, even if it was a slower night of the week with little social activity going on, there will always be a venue with a live musician or band playing. 

This is Banned Wagon, they were good!

You can even listen for a little while, then move on to the next venue and listen to someone different. The smaller town and villages may only have one place where a musician or band can play, but even they make sure someone is there to play at least once or twice a week.

This is Paul Jenkinson, and you can find his info here

And the music is more than just bagpipes and violin, it has the harp, the bodhrain, and the banjo, to name a few. Even if it's just one singer and/or musician, or a whole band, you're in for a treat whenever you run into these musicians.

And if you're lucky, it'll be a full concert!

The People

Every other person I've spoken to who has traveled to Ireland all agree: the people there are amazing. They are some of the friendliest people you will meet! Now keep in mind, this being the human race, not everyone will be the most cordial, but the majority will chat with you whenever you get the opportunity. 

This cool gent, Eddie Lenihan, is a professional storyteller with several books published!

You do need to be careful about the people you talk with though, because if you're not paying attention, you can find yourself talking with them anywhere from 15 minutes to 2 full hours! Not kidding! Once I went down to the hotel lobby to pick up something, and wound up chatting with one of the hotel staff for about 20 minutes. He told me a bit about the town we were in, and that one of the musicians from a popular Irish band, The Pogues, had stayed there two weeks prior. I'd only meant to be gone for 2 minutes! Then there was the first time I went to King John's Castle in Limerick, my sister and I chatted with one of the historical re-enactors, and we were there for the 2 hours!

It was even his idea to pose for this pic!

Regardless, they're still wonderful people. Another time worth mentioning was when I was taking the Luas to the hostel I was staying in, and I had a full suitcase, a recently purchased duffel bag (I went a little nuts shopping this particular trip), and had my backpack. The Luas car was completely full, but when I let the people standing by the door know I'd reached my stop, they all made sure I had the room to leave without being stuck on the car! And yet another, when I took a taxi to the airport, the driver took the time to find me a quicker route since there was morning traffic, which turned out to be a more scenic route that he gave me a commentary on the whole time. I left him a good tip for that!

There aren't many countries in the world that you can visit where the people are one of the main things that stand out. They tell amazing stories, know how to have fun, and often times, even look out for you. An Aussie who was on one of the trips I was on, while walking back to our hotel in Galway around midnight, told me that a woman drove up beside her and asked her if she needed a ride anywhere. She was fine, but was touched that this sweet Irishwoman was concerned for her safety.

They also have a wonderful sense of humor. Most of the clapboards you'll see out in front of restaurants will have something clever or silly written on them. 

Here's an example outside the Teeling Distillery

Or, if you visit a dinner experience, such as at the Merry Ploughboys, you'll find a placemat with these rules of Irish culture here:

Sorry about the shadow!

Honestly, if you make it through a trip to Ireland without at least a 10-minute chat with a local, you have missed out.

And the one thing I don't like: The Roads!

The roads in Ireland are insane. The freeway/expressway/motorway system they use has tolls just about everywhere that need to be paid within 24 hours or you can incur a fine. Then you have the rural roads, which are super narrow. And if you're a regular car going one way and you come across a bus coming the other way? You need to get out of the way! And if there's nowhere for you to pull over, you need to reverse until you find a place where the bus can pass you! And if there are other cars behind you, they all know the drill and have to do it with you. It's nuts.

Here's one of the roads I drove: Corkscrew Hill. Name says it all!

The drivers aren't too bad, and it's driving etiquette to wave at a driver you're passing on the roadways. But the speeds on the rural roads can be super slow or a dare to see if you'll actually do it at the posted speed. Taking a guided tour or traveling by railway may be more practical in the long run, but having the freedom to explore off the beaten paths in a car is a special experience. Too bad it includes those roads!

Ready to Go Yet?

I would love to spend more time in Northern Ireland the next time I visit (also so I could do it better justice in a blog such as this one), and plan to do my own itinerary to make sure I see everything. In the meantime, I hope I've done both countries a service in explaining everything I love about them.

Though if I could make just one must-visit location, make sure to stop by a Murphy's Ice Cream location at least once!

You won't regret it!

Since I can't return to Ireland right away, my next blog post will be on a local trip I'll be taking. One of the things I've been meaning to do for a while is try out an AirBnB, and am taking the opportunity of trying one out! 

Until next time, start planning for your next trip!

Gifs courtesy of Giphy