Wait, another trip already?
Yes indeedy, I've traveled outside of the US again! I took advantage of a G Adventures sale and took a trip to Belize and Guatemala, and it was a complete culture shock after my most recent visit to Japan. It was also a more exhausting trip, but hey, if you're not dog tired before 9:00pm, you're doing it wrong!
Like most of my trips, there was pre-departure drama, and I've decided to include those stories as they are pretty funny looking back on them after I've returned.
The Pre-Trip Drama
At the time of booking this trip, I had over a week after returning to the mainland to rest and prepare for my trip, but I was misinformed and would actually be staying a week later. Between my previous end date and my departure date, I would have had a week and a half before flying out. Now, I would only have 5 days.
After having worked 4 months without a day off, my first day had me resting, while the rest had me running errands and doing all my pre-trip preparation, all while I was trying to conquer jetlag. By the time I began flying, I was still more tired than I usually am before setting out.
Arrival in Belize City
I hadn't slept much having had to crash in the Denver terminal overnight, nor was I able to sleep long on the flight to Belize. The first thing that I noticed about this new country was the humidity. I burst out in sweat as we disembarked the plane and went straight to immigration, which took nearly an hour. Luckily, my prepaid hotel pickup was nearby and I didn't have to wait long to be transported to the hotel.
My ride had three other ladies, all of whom were part of my group. As it turned out, one had arrived, the coach had come to pick her up, and then the driver was notified that another one had arrived! He had turned around, picked up the second, and was on his way to the hotel when he was called again for his third passenger! And guess what happened when I showed up? Once again, he turned around. Thankfully, we all had a laugh at the situation.
We made it to the hotel where we changed and freshened up, and these three new friends plus another girl who had arrived earlier and was part of our group all decided to follow me, because I had a destination in mind: the Belize sign. Yes, it was a tourist standard, but what the hey. It was a nice walk through the city and we got to know each other.
One of the cool things that we were unable to catch on our cameras were the crabs that hid in drains. It was almost like a horror movie when we would see the crab claws poking out of the drains before quickly disappearing. Had they not been so quick, it would have made for an amazing photo or video opportunity!
Back at the hotel, we were told when and where to meet the rest of our group and guide. We eventually all got together and went over the trip itinerary, plus some helpful tips about the country.
We then went to have dinner at the Celebrity Restaurant down the street where we had our first glimpse at local cuisine. Most of the dishes offered were more American based, so I opted for the chicken kabobs. They were perfect seasoned and seared! Our guide offered some suggestions for some night life nearby, but unfortunately, I was too tired for this. I called it a night early.
Third World Public Transport
No sooner had we arrived in Belize did we head for the Guatemalan border! Our guide had given our group the heads up that we would be using public transportation to get to the border, and that the bus we would be taking was a converted school bus. What none of us were prepared for was the ride itself. We boarded the bus and tried to find places to sit. Some found seats quickly, but I was not so lucky. A kind lady who already had her mom sitting beside her allowed me to squeeze my booty only the edge of her seat, while others in our group had to stand, or had other passengers just sit on their laps!
Well, I guess there are stranger ways of making new friends!
The ride was ridiculously bumpy. The roads were full of potholes and we felt every single one on this nearly 2 hour ride. It made perfect sense why there were so many billboards for car shock absorbers along the roads. And air conditioning? Non existent! The windows were rolled down for airflow, and when we were hit with a downpour? Those windows went right up. Not the most comfortable ride, but looking back, it was a supremely funny travel moment. How else are you going to learn about how other countries live?
The Guatemala Mayans and Flores
We eventually reached the Guatemalan border and there was a distinct difference in the two countries right away. Belize has a beautiful countryside but most of the homes out there are built to withstand heavy rainfall, so many of the buildings have tin roofs and not as much color, especially in the cities.
Guatemala, on the other hand, is also a third world country, but their buildings have a district Central American look with colorful homes and a hint of the southwestern U.S. look. Their cities are also built to withstand regular rainstorms but reflect more culture. Both countries are exciting but very different from each other.
Our first stop after a brief lunch was at Yaxha, one of the many Mayan sites in the area. Here, our local guide introduced us to the ancient culture and was very informative about how ancient Mayan city layouts were designed. Surrounding us were the sounds of the local wildlife: cicadas and monkeys! The cicadas came and went in waves, while the howler monkeys stayed far away. However, spider monkeys came close though they made no sounds.
We climbed our first pyramid and were able to look out cross the lake into the rainforest. It was a breathtaking sight, enhanced by the fact that were were atop a structure that had been built well before Rome! There was also a security guard atop the pyramid, who was a friendly sort, but he also had a massive machete nearby. Ain't nobody messing on this pyramid with this cool dude around!
Throughout the rest of the site, we saw more monkeys and wild avocados that tried to attack us (just kidding!), ant highways, and more pyramids we could climb. Yaxha took several hours to navigate and covered a few miles. Afterwards, we were taken to the city of Flores, where we were dropped off a few blocks from our hotel as our van was too large to drive down the narrow streets.
It was night by the time we had taken time to get refreshed. We went to a nearby restaurant that offered amazing local cuisine and I enjoyed some garlic shrimp with grilled pineapple. So yummy! One of the fun quirks about this restaurant was the geckos on the ceiling that lingered to eat the bugs attracted to the food!
The next morning we were up early to check out the next Mayan site, Tikal. Tikal is one of the oldest and most vast of the ancient sites, and was also used as a filming location for Yavin IV in Star Wars and the jungle in Predator. We stopped at a wonderful little restaurant for breakfast where I had breakfast tamales! It was a different but yummy way to start the day.
The trip to Tikal took over an hour on another bumpy road, but we had an amazing tour guide who told us all about the area and fun facts about Mayan culture. When we arrived, we came across some rare birds in the parking lot, which some of our group were very excited for. The visitor's center was the next stop, and there were vendors there with a variety of different souvenirs. We would check back there later.
Tikal covers so much land mass that it is even on the AllTrails app as a minor hike. We hiked up the moderately sloped paths to be taken to some of the pyramids first. Just like in Yaxha, were were able to climb them, though all of these pyramids had stairs built alongside them. There was no climbing them up the original designed stairs this time.
As we went up the different pyramids, my groups started taking plenty of pictures, as the landscape out here was absolutely incredible. I was also able to share some tips on how to pose for pictures, as that had been something I have been working on in my latest travels. Pretty soon, all the girls in my group were all posing in similar ways and coming up with their own variations!
We moved on from there and came across more spider monkeys and even coatimundis! There were howler monkeys nearby from their howls, but those can be heard from as far away as 2 miles so we never got to see them.
As for the animals that were nearby, crowds began to gather around to watch them play and eat. Other guides made sure everyone stayed away from these animals, because many tourists still don't understand that you should never go near one.
We moved on from there and came across one of the highlights of Tikal: the main plaza.
Not only was it in spectacular condition, but carved faces called "masks" were unearthed here, many of which had their original paint. The fact that these masks had stayed in such shape after all these centuries truly is a testament to the Mayan culture.
After exploring the rest of the site, we were escorted back to the visitor's center where we did a little shopping before returning to Flores. The gals and I did a little bit of shopping together here as well, then split up with plans to meet at a local bar later to watch the sunset.
I took the time to admire the city which was filled with many colorful buildings and a relaxed atmosphere. I took some amazing photos of the sunset with incoming thunderclouds, and found a yogurt gelato shop before stopping for dinner and a restaurant called Casa Blanca.
Casa Blanca was a highlight because the host who invited me in was this very friendly gentleman named Arturo. He was easily the best host I'd ever met and instantly made me feel like I was an old friend. I ordered a simple yet delicious dinner before heading for the bar called Mango's, just as it was beginning to rain.
Those thunderclouds I had noted early were moving in and began dumping rain on us. I ordered a local drink that was served with a curl of cinnamon that was lit on fire!
The bar was closing early, so we decided to leave to go out on the town, but that was the time that the thunderstorm began pouring buckets, causing every to book it to the hotel and cancel our plans. I watched the rain for a bit to see if it would let up, but gave up after a while and spent the rest of the evening watching some interesting local movies (one involving a clever celebrity horse).
Breakfast was on our own this time, so I decided to go back to Casa Blanca since they were open for all meals. Arturo was there again, and he warmly greeted me as he had the night before. I ordered some pancakes which were served with local honey instead of syrup (a different but equally delicious option), and one of the gals from my group unexpectedly joined me shortly afterwards. Once we were finished, Arturo came up to us and told us in Spanish, which my friend translated, that it was a pleasure having us there and that we had a friend in Arturo!
I'll have to find time to visit Arturo again sometime.
Back to Belize
We went back to the Belizean border and crossed through customs, which took a bit longer than expected. We were picked up by a local shuttle and taken to our hotel in San Ignacio, the Midas Hotel, one that had extremely high customer ratings. We dropped off our luggage and then were picked up by Belize Caving Expeditions and taken to the Nohoch Che'en Archaeological Site where we would spend our afternoon on a cave tubing adventure!
Before we set off, we were provided with Belize's signature meal, chicken with rice and beans, and its official cocktail, rum punch! I had to request the rice apart from the beans because beans and I do NOT get along (and I wanted to spare my friends). The rice was a pleasant surprise since it tasted like it had been cooked in butter. And the chicken? Extremely flavorful! The spices used in cooking it were the perfect blend of savory with a hint of heat. And the rum punch? Mildly fruity flavor with a good enough kick. It was a good lunch to have before venturing to the river.
I had to leave my phone behind because the waterproof cell phone case I had bought last year somehow vanished without a trace, and the replacement I had bought looked very unreliable (which not using turned out to be a smart move). I made a point to myself to request a GoPro for my upcoming for my upcoming birthday (which I got, woohoo!). Our party prepped to leave by putting on life jackets and helmets with waterproof lights on top, and we each grabbed an inner tube and hiked about a mile to the cave mouth where our journey would begin.
At this section of the river, there were deep areas where we could jump into the water, which I absolutely had to do. That water was so cold! After about 10 minutes of swimming and jumping, it was finally time to take off! Our guide hooked all of our inner tubes together and we were away!
This being a cave, natural light was blocked, so our waterproof helmet lights provided us with enough artificial light to see the save formations inside. We saw stalactites, stalagmites, and bats hanging from the roof of the cave. Halfway inside, we came to a naturally lit area where there was another opening for people who wanted to see the archaeological part without getting wet: ancient pottery!
Yes, there were broken shards of pottery that had been there for hundreds of years! It is believed that Mayans had escaped from conquerors in this cave and have left their pottery behind in an effort to flee when discovered. Here they have remained relatively undisturbed and will stay (provided idiot tourists don't ruin it for everyone else).
This section of the caves also had some smaller caverns. One had a deep pool we could jump in to (yup, did it!), and the other was a series of small spaces that we could swim through. Being the claustrophobic that I am, I was a bit uncomfortable going through these areas, but I sucked it up and made it through with just a little bit of anxiety. Our G Adventures guide told me she was proud of me for facing my fears that way.
It was time to leave after that, so our tubes were hooked back up again and we rode the river out of the cave. From there, we lounged about on the river, and had a truly magical experience! Our guide said to us, "right around this time, there's an iguana that usually shows up, and- wait! Look, there he is!" Sure enough, there was a large, green iguana right where he said it would be! Several of our group argued that it must have been animatronic since this couldn't have been a coincidence, but hey, sometimes things just work out that way!
We made it back to the starting point and walked back to the parking lot, and returned to the van. Upon returning to the hotel, we all freshened up, and were taken by our guide to a fabulous restaurant called The Guava Limb Cafe. Somehow, the day had given me a massive appetite, so I had a huge dinner with a delicious dessert of a chocolate torte.
At this time, I had to find an ATM because I had exchanged all of my Belizean dollars to Guatemalan quetzals and not have enough of the latter to exchange back. Our guide took me into the city center to the local bank, but halfway there, we got caught in another downpour! Our group took shelter underneath an overhang, while across the street, some locals and two of the waiters who had left the restaurant shortly afterwards went underneath an awning across the street. We were stuck there for 25 minutes!
You know it's an uncommon occurrence when even the locals won't venture out into a downpour like that.
The next day was the one where our group split up into various groups based upon the activities we wanted to do. Some went on to more cave exploring, others went to a local raptor park, and I joined the group going to Caracol. Caracol is another set of Mayan ruins, these being an entire archaeological reserve, but also the hardest to reach. Caracol translates to "seashell," as the route to get to Caracol is in that shape. It is also ridiculously bumpy, which, despite this, I still fell asleep on the road several times.
I joined two of my friends on this excursion, and we set off into these wild ruins with our guide. Many of the ruins were as expected, with high pyramids, plazas, and acropolises, but there were also more mounds of uncovered ruins than the other sites we had been to.
These ruins are not planned to be uncovered because once they are exposed to the elements, they begin to decay. Keeping them under the layers of sediment that have preserved them over the centuries ensures they will last far longer.
One of the interesting areas was at an acropolis. There was a small alter that was in the archaeological shape of most of the other ruins in the area, but the difference was...it was erected in 2012.
Our group explored the reserve further before having lunch and heading back down toward San Ignacio. On the way, we stopped at the Rio On Pools, small pools that formed as the river flowed downward, creating a series of small waterfalls. We had discussed taking a dip in the pools, but I wasn't feeling particularly well that day, and the other two were bushed from our day trip. We decided to return to San Ignacio.
After that ridiculously bumpy ride, we made it back to the hotel where it started pouring rain, but we still took advantage of the happy hour prices and enjoyed some drinks with the other G Adventures group that was staying at the same hotel, but on a different adventure. We had dinner at the Ko-Ox-Han-Nah Deli and took a night stroll through the city afterwards.
It was another night where we turned in early, but that was because we were all excited for tomorrow's destination: Caye Caulker!
Tropical Island Stay
It was another early morning of using public transportation, but this time, it wasn't nearly as crowded as before. Everyone in our group was able to fit into a seat without a local sitting on the edge of the seat or directly in our laps (whew!). We had a brief stopover in the capital city of Belmopan, but I didn't feel the need to leave the bus so I stayed aboard until we returned to Belize City.
We were dropped off at the docks and grabbed lunch while we waited for the water taxi to arrive, and then it was an hour ride to Caye Caulker. Now this little isla here was exactly what I had envisioned a Caribbean island to look like! There were no cars, only golf carts and bikes for transportation. All of the buildings lining the sandy streets had the frozen in time early 1970s beach look, though the smell didn't match. That unpleasant aroma was of rotting kelp and dead fish.
Our first stop was the hotel to drop off our bags, and then our guide took us around the island. She pointed out the various restaurants, bars, and other fun places to check out. We made it to The Split, where Caye Caulker was halved due to weather patterns, and tried out some of the street food. The lobster kabob I had from Chef Kareem was absolutely amazing! Once everyone had their fill, we joined a bike tour of the island led by local students!
The bike tour took us off the main street and into the neighborhoods with the first stop being at one of the local schools. We were taught a few phrases in Creole English by the students, which was fun, and were able to take a look at the school. Next, we were taken to a marine reserve where it was time for the mantas and seahorses to gather at the shore. Our group stayed on the shore, while other tourists who were in the water were being told to get out so that nobody would trouble the mantas.
After this visit, we were taken to the Tarpon Bay were the large, fanged fish hang out. Some of us, myself included, got to feed them, which was a little nerve-wracking but cool. Afterwards we were brought back to The Split to see where we could take a small ferry to the northern part of the island if we so wanted. By then, it started raining buckets, but we were back where we began so we didn't have to ride too far.
Most of us returned to the hotel to freshen up for dinnertime. Our guide took us out to a wonderful little dive called Swings, and the managers extended the happy hour drinks for us!
I decided to have the barracuda for dinner, which was boney but had a good flavor to it. It was a humid night so we decided to turn in early. We had a big day ahead of us tomorrow!
Hol Chan Marine Reserve
I sought out morning breakfast and discovered that iguanas are known for basking on restaurant floors. That was a fun tidbit to come across.
By midmorning, my group met up at Ragga's Sailing Adventures for our adventure into marine-life filled waters. Our group was accompanied by another G Adventures group, so we had a very full ship as we went through the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. Our first stop was to see a manatee, and the second was to explore the reef. Our snorkeling guide took us through the kelp beds, along the rocky reefs, and even tried to find some eels he knew were in the area, though sadly this time they were not in that day.
A little further into the reserve, we made our next stop...and were instantly swarmed by nurse sharks!
Thankfully, nurse sharks do not prey on humans (attacking is rare), so we snorkeled up and dove right in! We kept our distance of course, but we did swim within 10 feet of them! We continued throughout the area and saw many schools of exotic fishes, manta rays, and rocky areas that we had the option of swimming through, but my claustrophobic self had to decline.
We finished up the dive and returned to the boat where we were served the traditional chicken with rice and beans (myself sans the beans) with the rum punch to quench our thirst. By this time, I was starting to notice the massive sunburn I was getting despite reapplying every time I got out of the water. We sailed on a little further to see turtles, but I declined the snorkel this time since I see turtles regularly in Hawaii.
It was an incredible experience, one that I am so glad I was able to participate in! And this wasn't the last time we had an adventure with this company, as you'll read just a little bit later...
After this adventure, our group met up at sundown at one of the western bars. It was a lovely night for a sunset paired with the best sangria I have ever had! We all went our separate ways for dinner after that, and I finally managed to try some Belizean ice cream. It was delicious, but it was so humid outside that it was apt to melt within minutes, so I had to eat it quickly before returning to the hotel.
Final Free Day
It was tragically our last day together, but it was also the one free day we had to ourselves. Some went to the bars, others went to the spas, but me? I took a boat trip to the next island in the Ambergis Caye: San Pedro!
San Pedro had more of a Spanish feel to it and had a few cars in addition to the golf carts for transportation. This island was also much larger than Caye Caulker, and therefore was busier. The streets were narrow and full of autos, cycles and people. I tried to go to an aquarium but the only way there was under construction with no sidewalks, so I went elsewhere.
I found myself at the Tiburon Rum distillery and participated in a rum tasting experience! I tried 4 rums total: white and dark rums by themselves, then white rums with fresh fruits, and the final taste made with pineapple and jalapenos! All of them were incredible, but the fruit blend was my favorite. From there, I continued exploring the island and checked out the various shops.
Eventually, I stopped for lunch at a highly recommended restaurant called Elvi's Kitchen. The wait staff there were very friendly and personable, and the sandwich I got was uniquely delicious, though there was some ingredient in the spread that didn't quite agree with me. I walked the beaches, looked through the shops, and eventually stopped at a chocolate shop for dessert. I had in mind to buy some chocolate, but considering the humidity, it would have melted. I opted for a milkshake instead.
I returned to Caye Caulker and met back up with my group where we did a sunset cruise with Ragga's! We had two other passengers not in our group who joined with us, and we sipped on more rum punch and enjoyed reggae covers of popular songs while parking a few miles off the island to watch the sunset.
Not only was this the best sunset I've ever witness, but we also saw some dolphins, and had a thunderstorm to our backs! It was an absolutely incredible night, and the two extra passengers were some very cool people to talk to.
Afterwards, we went to have a final dinner together, and our guide was able to snag the happy hour prices for drinks for our group. It was a very bittersweet night as we reflected on our favorite parts of the adventures we'd had together.
I had an amazing chicken kabob for dinner and paired it with two Bailey's pina coladas.
All Good Things Must End
Though the trip was over, our adventure wasn't finished yet. Several of my group were leaving at the same time I was, so we booked the same boat ride back to the mainland, and split the taxi fair to the airport. The Belize City airport was tiny but had good shopping and several decent restaurants. We were all informed shortly that our flight was delayed, so I took this opportunity to finally try the country's favorite stout beer, Belikin. It was a good brew!
My group hung around together until it was time to board, as four of us were on the same flight. We flew in to Houston, where one of our friends went off to her next connecting flight right away, while I stuck around with the other two, who made it just in time to make their connecting flight.
We parted from there, and my flight wasn't leaving until the wee hours of the morning, so I chilled in the airport after having dinner. I didn't want to sleep in this airport, so I stayed up watching a Thai movie called Single Lady. I returned home a few hours later and made it back safe and sound.
Travel Tips for Central America
Central America was lush and beautiful, but also extremely humid. The first thing I would recommend about visiting this area is to wear breathable clothing and waterproof shoes with good tread. I was smart enough to have updated my travel wardrobe right before embarking and had made plenty of good fashion choices, and the shoes I had chosen were the right type, but were unfortunately white because they had failed as work shoes.
Here are some other tips about Central America that should benefit anyone visiting.
Water and Ice
The water here is not drinkable as it is rarely purified. You may bring your own reusable water bottle, but ultimately, you'll be buying local water bottles wherever you go and not only using it for drinking, but also brushing your teeth. Ice can also be an issue unless the cubes are round with a hole in the center. Most hotels will offer purified water for water bottles but never take water from the faucets.
To quote a friend of mine who had visited Belize before: "Imodium. Imodium. IMODIUM."
Bring it along just in case. If you do wind up having any tummy trouble, our guide recommended what she called the "white diet:" rice and white bread until what is in your system passes.
Toilets
Belize and Guatemala both had ample plumbing, but the toilets cannot take toilet paper. It needs to be tossed in the trash can. Forgetting to do this once or twice may not cause any immediate issues, but it's best to dispose of that waste in the trash.
Restaurants
You may remember from my post about Japanese food that trying new foods is among my favorite things about traveling. Out here, however, not all eateries here are up to FDA guidelines. When traveling, make sure to look into reviews of the restaurants you want to try, as guests can often find themselves sick after eating there. One of our traveling friends had this happen to her and had to go on a diet of bread and white rice for several days.
Once you've done your research, try it all! The cuisines out here were very flavorful and tasty.
Local Cash
US dollars can be used in Belize, but there are few ATMs that shell out cash without hefty fees. Exchanging your dollars for local cash may seem logical, but hanging on to those Jacksons will usually take you just as far. And change is given in both American and local dollars.
Guatemala sticks mostly to their quetzals, but will accept American cash every now and then. It's best to stick with their local currency in case you find a location that won't accept USD or take card payments.
Mosquitoes
Belize didn't have as many mosquitoes as I thought it would, but Guatemala had quite the numbers being in the rainforest. Beforehand, I took vitamin B12 and garlic supplements, which did help, though I still got bitten here and there.
Make sure to bring bug spray and salve for any biters that slip past your repellant.
Colorful Signs!
Most of the major cities in Belize and Guatemala display their names in big signs, like the Belize and San Pedro signs I've already posted. It's not just in those two areas, they're everywhere!
It may seem a bit touristy to take pictures with them all, but what the hey. You want to do it? Do it!
Two Countries Down!
This wasn't the trip I was expecting, but it was certainly fun! I will definitely need to come back to Guatemala sometime, and I liked Caye Caulker enough to know that if I need a quick tropical escape, this is a good one to go to!
As we're entering into the holiday season, I hope yours are amazing, and I'll see you soon with another post!
Gifs courtesy of Giphy. All pictures were taken by me or by using my device and are not to be used without permission.
