Saturday, August 7, 2021

The Redding Waterfall Loop, part 1: The Falls

My most recent adventure brought me to the Redding Waterfall Loop, and I was able to almost complete it within one three-day weekend!

In case you're wondering, the Redding Waterfall Loop is a series of 13 waterfalls that can be accessed at least an hour from the city of Redding, in Shasta County, Northern California. These waterfalls coincidentally form an almost perfect loop when the starting point is in Redding itself. However, they cannot be all accessed within one day, or even in two days.

So, did I ever mention that I have time management down to a science?

I spent several days studying this loop and strategically planning out my various lodgings so that I could see as many in a single day as possible. I also took the time to study the locations of these falls and the best means of reaching them, if there were any fees involved, and, very importantly, where the closest bathrooms were! 

I had meant to post this earlier but wound up being cast in a play, so this post is a little late and I apologize. I also need to split this post in half, so this post will focus solely on the falls, while the next one will be the guides to these falls.

And now, let's take a look at these wonders of nature!

The Falls that Comprise the Redding Waterfall Loop

Redding is in one of the most strategically beneficial places for seeing the best waterfalls outside of Yosemite in California. The city's tourism website has a map listing the dozens of waterfalls within 1-2 hours of the city, but the official loop only lists 13. This list, while informative, is not entirely up to date anymore.

Of these 13 waterfalls, 12 are accessible, and 1 of those 12 can only be accessed by SUVs. Here's a list of the 13 waterfalls:

Root Creek Falls

Burstarse Falls

Hedge Creek Falls

Mossbrae Falls

Faery Falls

Lower McCloud Falls

Middle McCloud Falls

Upper McCloud Falls

Burney Falls

Montgomery Creek Falls

Hatchet Creek Falls 

Potem Falls

Little Backbone Creek 

Eleven of these 13 falls are easily accessible, so I believe that this loop should be updated. In my travels, I came across another waterfall that I think should be on the list, and one other that I wasn't able to see for myself but should be included on the list.

Also, with my description of the various falls, the lengths of the trails will be based on my health app records. 

So, without further ado, let us begin!

First Things First: The Inaccessible Falls

This falls loop is comprised of some incredible waterfalls, but sadly, one of them is permanently closed: Hatchet Creek Falls. These falls were on private property, and due to fire damage and stupid visitors, the owners felt the need to close off their grounds. While tragic, this should prove a lesson to all travelers and hikers: when on private property, show the utmost respect for the area, and leave no trace! Areas like this are unique and beautiful, and should be kept as such!

It's sad that we need to leave messages like this up now! Pick up your litter, people!

The next waterfall that is not quite accessible, but almost is, is Little Backbone Creek. I add this to this list because the road that leads there is an ATV road. If you have an ATV, dirt bike, motorcycle, truck, or any other type of sturdy SUV, you can make it there. But if you drive anything other than those (like myself), you will NOT be able to reach these falls. The main road drops at about a 45 degree angle!

See the arrow? That's where the road suddenly drops downward!

There is another means of reaching a trail to go there, but that one is blocked off with "no trespassing" signs. So while you can still reach this particular waterfall, be prepared for an extremely bumpy ride, and make sure that you have the right vehicle to get there. Otherwise, you'll probably wind up with more damage to your car than it's worth!

This waterfall can also be accessed by boat if you want to skip the drive altogether.

Before You Begin the Trip

This being a trip that focuses on waterfalls, keep in mind that waterfalls means lots of water!

Since California has been suffering from droughts the last few years, the best time to visit these falls would be between mid-April to early June. After June, most of these falls will likely be dried up or little more than a trickle.

You will also need waterproof and slip resistant boots. Some of these falls even require you to hike upstream without a trail, or even over rocks, but even with slip-resistant boots you will likely slide here and there. Hiking poles are also recommended for the hikes over the Pacific Crest Trail, or PCT for short.

Personal Descriptions of the Waterfalls

Waterfall 1: Root Creek Falls

Parking: There are two parking lots. The first is free, but the exit is a one-way road, so you have to pass the offramp, take the next exit, then go right back onto I-5 South and take the exit, then immediately park in the dirt lot on the right. If you miss it, you need to loop around back to the lot, or go to the other option.

The second lot is part of the Castle Crags State Park. This lot has a fee of $10 per vehicle.

Trail Length: 5 miles from I-5, 4 miles from the State Park; from the park follow the signs to the PCT junction.

Trail Difficulty: Starting from the I-5 parking lot is steep, giving this portion of the trail a moderate difficulty. If you start from the Castle Crags lot, the trail is more level. On the whole, once you reach PCT, the trail is easy enough for kids to handle.

Bathrooms: No bathrooms at the first lot off of I-5, but there are some at the Castle Crags Lot. There is also a Chevron station at the Castle Crags exit that has accessible bathrooms.

Hazards: Slippery rocks, poison oak

Cell phone coverage: Limited

Special notes: If you park at the Castle Crags lot, the trail to the falls is 90% wheelchair accessible. When you are within .2 miles of the falls, the trail is no longer wide enough for wheelchairs, but despite the roughness, a person in a wheelchair may still be able to reach the lower falls, where the trail dead ends.

My review: The lower falls were beautiful, but to reach the main falls was dangerous. I couldn't go far above the most accessible area without slipping and sliding everywhere. If you travel with a group, you could probably make it to the main falls without having to worry too much. Traveling alone, however, is a different story. If you hurt yourself trying to reach the main falls, or traveling back to the trail, you're still several miles from anyone who could help. It's your call if you go alone.

I felt like a frog in this shot

Waterfall 2: Burstarse Falls

Parking: A decent sized lot can be accessed from Castle Creek Rd. From there, you can reach the Dog Trailhead, which leads to PCT.

Trail Length: 5.26 miles.

Trail Difficulty: The first .5 miles are brutally steep and rocky both going up and down, but once you reach PCT, it's much easier.

Bathrooms: There is a Chevron station right at the I-5 exit that has accessible bathrooms.

Hazards: Loose rocks, slippery rocks, poison oak, bugs

Cell phone coverage: Limited

Special note: This trail can also be accessed from the Castle Crags parking lot. Follow the signs for PCT for a longer but easier hike.

My review: These falls were truly amazing! Even though the main falls, like Root Creek, were further up the hill and had to be traversed off-trail, they were still very beautiful at Burstarse Creek. The lower falls are more than satisfactory, but going further up alone is not recommended, as the risk of injury isn't worth being stranded in the wilderness for. Again, it's your call.

Next time I'm going all the way

Waterfall 3: Hedge Creek Falls


Parking: A small lot is available directly across the street from the trail to the falls. Depending on the time of day, it can be full up, so you would need to find street parking on one of the side streets of Dunsmuir Ave. to the southwest. These is no street parking to the northwest.

Trail length: 0.6 miles

Trail Difficulty: Easy

Bathrooms: None

Hazards: None

Cell phone coverage: Moderate

Special notes: There have been plans on the back burner for years that would connect Hedge Creek Falls with Mossbrae Falls, but as of now there's still no development. There isn't much else to this area outside of the falls, though the trail does explore the creek as it flows into the Sacramento River. There's also a platform where you can have a river view of Mt. Shasta.

My review: This waterfall is definitely worth checking out. It has an adventure movie feel to it, and depending on how much time you have, you can spend as little as 15 minutes there and have a satisfactory experience. 

The 8th wonder of the world: THE BACK SIDE OF WATER!

Waterfall 4: Mossbrae Falls

Parking: Google Maps will take you to Shasta Retreat on Scarlet Way, but this is private property and there are signs all over stating that there is no waterfall parking allowed. There is street parking on Dunsmuir Ave. not too far away, but make sure that you are definitely in a parking zone as some areas are designated as "no parking."

Trail length: 2.9 miles

Trail Difficulty: Easy, though the trail isn't your expected trail; it goes alongside the Pacific Railroad. The way is covered in rocks and can be extremely narrow between the river's edge and the tracks, making for a rough walk.

Bathrooms: None

Hazards: The railroad. Stay on the river side of the tracks and don't go on the canyon side. You will hear any trains approaching with their horns, and also the tracks will start to crackle with electricity before the you hear the horns. Do not have earbuds in or headphones on while going this route!

Cell phone coverage: Minimal

Special notes: This route is on private property, but Pacific Railroad allows people to visit the falls so long as you do so safely. Some people have been dumb enough to not take their safety seriously when the train approaches. If you hear a train approaching, find an area that will allow you a wide enough berth for the train to pass. Since the conductors are aware of the pedestrian traffic, they will often times wave at the people passing. So wave back!

See how close the train is? The part of the trail I was on was extremely narrow, and I was right at the edge!

My review: There is something absolutely magical about these falls. Unlike the rest of the falls on this list, which are all fueled by creeks, rivers, and lakes, this one is made up of natural springs! The fact that the water comes directly from the earth, combined with the unique way the moss and foliage drapes from the side of the hill, adds an ethereal sense that makes you react with awe and feel uncommonly calm. 

Considering how hazardous the trek is to this waterfall, I would plan on taking extra time to spend there once you reach the falls, and bring a lunch or snack depending on the time of day you visit.

Here's a part of the falls to the left that's not often pictured

Waterfall 5: Faery Falls


You'd think I'd be smart enough to venture upstream just a bit more, but nope!

Parking: There is a very large lot here, though the road is very rough and remote.

Trail length: 1.3 miles

Trail difficulty: Easy

Bathrooms: None, though there are several gas stations and restaurants in the town of Mt. Shasta that you may be able to access.

Hazards: Slippery rocks, bugs, snakes

Thought I was kidding? I also stepped on that little guy!

Cell phone coverage: None

Special notes: The parking lot is at the foot of the of Ney Springs, which is a nice place to relax if you have the time. The main falls are further up the trail from where the trail supposedly tells you where the falls are, so keep going further after reaching the lower falls. I missed this due to this being my last waterfall of the day and having already hiked 15 miles, so I was too mentally tired to realize I could go on further.

My review: These falls are far out enough to bring some relaxation after a long day, so if you want a waterfall with no distractions and plenty of places to explore, this is a good one. There is also a natural well with a bubbling spring that is worth checking out here. Please be careful if you try climbing over the rocks, as these ones were more slippery that the rocks at the previous falls.

The creek is definitely worth checking out too

Waterfall 6: Lower McCloud Falls

Parking: There is a moderately sized lot here with spaces large enough for trailers and mobile homes, and there are no fees. However, this lot tends to fill up very quickly so it's best to arrive early since there's little to no street parking available.

Trail length: There isn't much of a trail to this waterfall as it's immediately accessible from the parking lot by a short path. However, if you want to do the full McCloud trail, going from lower to middle to upper, the round trip is 4.6 miles.

Trail difficulty: Easy. Of all the trails on this loop, this one is the easiest and safest to access.

Bathrooms: There are vault toilets at this location with no sinks. There is a water spigot outside of the toilets so you may want to bring your own soap and towel; otherwise have hand sanitizer with you. The trail also passes several camp sites which also have vault toilets.

Hazards: If you want to go down to the falls, you'll have to climb over plenty of rocks. There is a chance of slipping on these rocks if you aren't careful.

Cell phone coverage: Minimal

Special notes: You can save time by visiting each one of the McCloud Falls individually by driving, as each waterfall has its own parking lot.

My review: If you start at the lower lot, the falls only get better as they go. I would highly advise starting at the lower falls and making your way up from there.

A small tripod can only do so much with angles

Waterfall 7: Middle McCloud Falls

Parking: There is a small parking lot at this location with no fees.

Trail length: 0.7 miles

Trail difficulty: Midway between easy and moderate. The trail is down and up, and coming up can be a little strenuous.

Bathrooms: Vault toilets

Hazards: Slippery rocks

Cell phone coverage: None

Special notes: If you want to hike but still save some time, drive from the lower falls to the middle falls, then hike from the vista point to the trail that links up to the vista point at the upper falls. It's an easy, lovely little hike that only clocks at 0.65 miles there, bringing your total hike to 1.3 miles.

My review: Of the three tiers of the McCloud Falls, this one is the best. It is the largest and the most impressive, though climbing over the rocks for a better look is more hazardous than the lower falls. Proceed with caution!

The vista point provides a great shot!

Waterfall 8: Upper McCloud Falls

Parking: There is a small parking lot at this location with no fees, though driving here from the middle falls doesn't offer as good of views as the small hiking trail linking the two segments.

Trail length: No trail, just the vista point unless you hike from the middle falls.

Trail difficulty: None

Bathrooms: Vault toilets

Hazards: None, though the trail connecting the upper and middle falls can be a little narrow if you choose to use it.

Cell phone coverage: None

Special notes: The connecting trail is the best means of seeing this waterfall.

My review: The upper falls are a wonderful sight to behold, though it's a little dangerous to access. The creek above the falls is inaccessible, though the pool below makes for a nice swimming hole. 

Several smaller falls occur before the final drop!

Waterfall 9: Rock Creek Falls (not on official list)

Preface: Since Hatchet Creek Falls is closed to the public, I did research to see if there were any other waterfalls that could be found between the listed waterfalls. My searches brought me to Rock Creek Falls, and I personally went out to investigate these falls and feel that they should be included on the official loop as it is an impressive waterfall.

Parking: The trail is at a remote PCT junction on a rough road, so there is street parking only, though there was at least one area that looked like it could handle about 2-3 smaller cars.

Trail length: 0.9 miles according to my health app

Trail difficulty: Easy

Bathrooms: None

Hazards: Narrow trail, slippery rocks, no shade

Cell phone coverage: Minimal to none

Special notes: Google Maps will bring you to the waterfall, but there will be no means of accessing it safely. Further down the road is a campsite along the creek but there is no trail beyond that. The safest access point is, as said above, at an easy-to-miss PCT junction. 

That tiny post is the only indication that you've reached the right spot

For this very reason, I took a picture of the PCT junction and the Google Maps location of how to reach this trail in case you would like to check it out for yourself.

That is the only safe access point

My review: I'm surprised that this waterfall wasn't included in the original loop because it is a grand sight. It also doesn't have any trail listed on AllTrails, Hiking Project, Komoot, or Gaia. Regardless, it is a quick hike across PCT that few people will be checking out unless they're also traveling PCT. You will likely be the only person on this trail if you do check it out, so please be very careful when going over the rocks for better views.

Rumor has it there's another decent waterfall a little further down the trail

Waterfall 10: Burney Falls


Parking: There are two parking lots at the McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial Park, and it costs $10 to enter. The first lot is right at the trail down to the falls, while the other is further on the Lake Britton Shore. Depending on the time of day and how busy it is, you may be lucky enough to snag a space closer to the falls, but if there's no parking available, there is a trail that will lead to the falls from the Lake Britton lot.

Trail length: For Burney Falls, the loop trail is 1 mile, with options to do other trails along the river. If you have to park at Lake Britton, the Rim Trail is an additional 2.5 round trip trail, bringing the full trip to just over 3.5 miles.

Trail difficulty: The falls loop trail is easy, though the Rim Trail is of a more moderate level. 

Bathrooms: Available at the visitor's center and Lake Britton campground.

Hazards: Some of the outlying trails are closed due to weather damage. It's best to stay away from the closed trails until they are safe to reopen.

Cell phone coverage: None

My review: Not to be missed! The massive size and overall grandeur of this waterfall is positively breathtaking. There are a lot of people there who will be swimming, fishing, and taking pictures, so sometimes the pedestrian traffic can be a bit much. Still, when you see this waterfall after viewing so many pictures of it, you'll see that the pictures can hardly do the real thing justice. Even with all the vehicle and pedestrian traffic, this waterfall is a must-see at any time of year.

This is a completely unaltered shot. The water is naturally that blue!

Waterfall 11: Montgomery Creek Falls


Parking: This waterfall is on a private drive, so there isn't much in the way of parking. There is a bridge on the drive, and the road before the bridge is wide enough to allow for some street parking. Going over the bridge, however, is private property. Make sure you don't trespass.

YOU SHALL NOT PASS!!!!!

Trail length: No trail, the falls are right off the bridge.

Trail difficulty: While there is no trail, the falls cut through a rocky crevice, and finding a way down to the rocky ridge can be tricky.

Bathrooms: None, though there is a rest area in Hillcrest off of Highway 299 a few miles away.

Hazards: The lack of a proper trail makes finding a good vantage point for the waterfall on either side can be precarious. Proceed with caution.

Cell phone coverage: Moderate

My review: This one may be easy to reach, but being so close to private property, and its lack of safety features, it is the one waterfall on the list that the least amount of time should be spent at. The dirt surrounding the sides of the falls is loose, so it is very easy to slip and lose your footing. It's a magnificent waterfall, but not worth risking your safety for. Take a few minutes and some pictures, then move on.

That pool may look inviting, but the drop coming is vicious!

Waterfall 12: Potem Falls


Parking: There is a small parking lot right at the trailhead. There are no fees, but the road there is long and extremely rough, though not the worst I've driven.

Trail length: 0.67 miles

Trail difficulty: Varies between easy and moderate. The way down is fairly easy, though going back up is a bit of a strain.

Bathrooms: None

Hazards: Poison oak everywhere. Do NOT leave the trail!

I'll be honest, after growing up around poison oak, I've never seen a species of it look pretty

Cell phone coverage: None

My review: This was the perfect waterfall to end the day with. It was remote, beautiful, and overall, serene. You can see the falls right from the trailhead, and once you make it down to the pool below the falls, you can relax with the sound of nothing but the rush of water. 

Unfortunately, my experience was tainted by a horribly timed thunderstorm. It began to rain lightly right as I appeared, and I had barely been down at the waterfall 5 minutes before the thunder rumbled. I had to hustle back to my car before the weather became worse.

I would have liked to spend more time at this waterfall, and fully intend to return soon.

This is from the top of the trailhead

Coming Up Next!

I hope you've enjoyed my personalized experience with the Redding Waterfall Loop! It was such an amazing and life-changing experience seeing these waterfalls, and I would definitely recommend seeing at least one or two of these falls if you're in the area. California is known for so many beautiful areas, but these waterfalls are truly hidden gems. 

Next, I'll have guides to how to best utilize your time seeing these waterfalls depending on how much time you have. This will be posted sooner rather than later since it took me so long to write this one, so check back, and be prepared to plan an adventure of your own to see these wonderful and lesser known marvels of nature!

All of these pictures were taken by me and not to be used except by me. Gifs courtesy of Giphy.

Sunday, May 16, 2021

Travel Diary: My First AirBNB Experience

As a traveler, I tend to find myself in a variety of different lodgings when I'm abroad or exploring my home country. I was hesitant about trying out AirBNB since that experience would be dealing directly with a person's home, but launching a blog like this, I decided it was time to check it out.

I took the initiative by making plans to visit a waterfall loop in the Shasta and Siskiyou counties and choose my AirBNB lodging in that area. 

Selecting the Property

I had heard from several other lady travelers that they had noticed that AirBNB fees had gone up over the last year. As I looked at varying properties across California is general, I figured out why prices had gone up: the cleaning fees. In this current Covid era, property owners are taking extra precautions to ensure the health and safety of their guests. However, certain properties had cleaning rates that cost almost as much as the rental fee itself!

While understandable, it makes just as much sense to rent a hotel room for the same price now. Though some of the AirBNB properties were luxurious, unique, and even converted from train cars, the word that they were cheaper than hotels is proving to be untrue now.

In the case of being a solo traveler, the properties I was looking into were rooms that were separate from the property owner's home. This was more as a matter of safety rather than privacy. For my first time, I wanted to feel as safe as possible, and staying inside a stranger's home with them was a little outside of my comfort zone. Maybe someday I'll give that a try so I can blog about that as well, but for now, I'll just stick with separate rooming arrangements or hostels for cheaper rates.

Despite the choice to not book a room at the owner's home, those options were the cheapest offered. The cleaning fees were also much less than for guest houses and apartments. So, for peace of mind, I went for the more costly option of a guest room, and found one for a decent price. The choice I made was a part of the same property as the owners and hosts, but it was completely separate from their home. 

The Stay

I only took three pics of the property, so most of what I will be documenting from here will be in word form. The property appeared to be formerly part of the garage and converted to a living area. The entry had French doors that were unlocked by a code provided by the hosts on the day of the stay, and entered in to a small living area.

Wash and Heihei were impressed

Behind, there was a small kitchen with some dishes, a microwave, a mini-fridge, a small tea arrangement and sink. Then there was a bathroom with a claw-footed bathtub/shower combination, and a nice sized bedroom with a big bed and a flat screen TV. Most of my food was trail snacks that didn't need to be removed from my car, but I had a breakfast of a Panera bagel and some snack trays of cured meats, cheese and crackers for my lunch that needed to be refrigerated. 

Shortly after booking the property, the host reached out to me to inform me that before I checked out, I would need to clean all surfaces I had contact with and that the cleaning directions would be inside of the armoire in the bedroom. Lo and behold, I found it right inside the door.

Clear and concise!

This explained why the cleaning fees were lower, but all things considered, it was a fair trade. For a lower fee, the guest takes about 20-30 minutes to clean up after themselves. So I spent the majority of my time in the bedroom and prepared for the rest of my journey starting early in the morning.

Definitely felt like home

The bed was comfy and had a good arrangement of pillows, and the TV provided options to various streaming services. Unlike your typical hotel or motel lodging, which usually supplies basic cable or satellite options, this AirBNB allowed access to Netflix, Amazon Prime and Hulu, though you as the guest would need to provide your own login information. Since I don't have any of these streaming services, I selected a free service and relaxed until I went to sleep.

I rose early in the morning and zapped the bagel in the microwave since there wasn't a toaster, and ate a quick breakfast before gathering my items and starting the clean. I referred to the list in the armoire and wiped down all surfaces, and found a broom behind one of the doors and gave the rooms a quick sweep before loading back up and heading for my next destination.

The checkout required me to reach out to my host, who thanked me for staying and for cleaning up after myself as I had agreed to. 

My Thoughts on the Experience

One thing you should know about AirBNB is that a good part of the experience relies on the guest/host relationship, even if it's brief, and very much encourages both to leave reviews for each other. As a first-time guest, some hosts are a little reluctant to accept their request to stay, but that wasn't the case with my host. She was very communicative about the expectations of the guest and did a wonderful job. She left me a glowing review for my first stay, and I responded in kind. It was a good experience.

However, since AirBNB does focus so much on a guest rating, it does add a bit of anxiety, especially for someone trying it out for the first time. This was a big factor in choosing a property instead of a personal room. While the host's lodgings were splendid, I didn't sleep well because I was concerned that I would be a less than stellar guest. While this was clearly overthinking, it still prevented me from getting the sleep I needed, though I still functioned well enough the next day.

The added pressure of being a good guest rarely factored in with other places I'd stayed while traveling. As far as I know, whenever I've had issues at the properties I'd stayed at in the past, they were dealt with in a professional manner because I wasn't the cause. Even though I was sure I'd been a good guest at other hotels and travel lodgings, with AirBNB allowing the host to give feedback, I felt insecure.

As an experience, I would say that it was a good new one for me to try. It also helps travelers be mindful of how they treat their lodgings, whether AirBNB or hotel chain, and I think it's something all solo travelers should try for themselves at least once.

On the whole, I think I prefer hotels though. Again, my host was great, so this opinion is based more on staying at a place where there isn't so much pressure to be perfect. When I stay in a hotel, I'm just looking for somewhere to stay so I can enjoy the adventure I'm on, but when I'm at a person's home or rental property, there's a slight strain added in making sure that you show the utmost respect for their property. I'm not saying you shouldn't be that type of guest wherever you go, but hotels for me are places to relax and revitalize before I venture out again.

And, if I'm being honest, I can earn rewards with hotels!

Still, I would like to thank my host again for a lovely experience. I may try AirBNB again in the future, but for now, I'll probably still stick with the tried and true lodgings I'm familiar with.

So, What About this Waterfall Loop?

Wouldn't you like to know?

Tune in next time for the details on how I spent my trip! I checked out the waterfall loop, and I'll be detailing my personal experiences and give my two cents on how best to see these waterfalls.

Until then, stay safe, and get ready to travel again!

Images courtesy of Giphy

Wednesday, March 31, 2021

Reasons to Love Ireland

It's St. Patrick's Day month, and what better time to post about the best things about the Emerald Isle?

I have visited this wonderful country three times, though my fourth attempt was foiled by Covid. Each time I've gone, I've fallen more in love with this island nation where my heart feels it belongs. Many of the people I've spoken with who have visited this country have expressed how much they love it too. So, what is it about Eire that makes it so special?

I'll be discussing my reasons for loving Ireland in no particular order, and, to be fair, will also list one aspect that I don't love. Please be advised that this will mostly focus on the Republic of Ireland, as I've only spent 4 days in Northern Ireland, which I loved just as much. If there's something about Ireland that stands out to you that you feel I've left out, feel free to comment below!

A Brief Overview of Ireland's Recent History

The Island of Ireland is split between four provinces and two countries: The provinces of Connacht, Leinster, and Munster, which comprise the Republic of Ireland, and Ulster, which is claimed as the separate Northern Ireland. The Republic, which is the country I've spent the most time in, is part of the European Union (EU), where they use the euro as their form of currency. Northern Ireland is considered to be part of the United Kingdom (UK) and uses the Great British Pound in their country.

For decades, these two countries experienced a time called "The Troubles," in which tension between them due to political and religious issues caused violent and non-violent protestations (Source: Britannica - The Troubles). The Troubles ended 1998 but is often referred to in Irish music, most popularly in U2's songs. The Netflix TV series, "Derry Girls," also follows teenagers growing up during this era.

Though there is still some political tension due to Brexit, the two countries are still living at peace with each other for the time being. There are many decisions that still need to be addressed, especially on the economical front for Northern Ireland, but it would appear both sides are hoping for a positive outcome. For a detailed report on what's happening, check out this report from Ireland's main news source, RTE.

As a female solo traveler, I can say that both countries are safe to travel alone. I have also witnessed a particular event first hand that was pointed out to me by the city tour guide when we were visited Derry. Our guide had served in the army during the time of the Troubles.

This picture is showing teenagers heading for a music festival called The Jika Jika Festival. Our guide said that what we were witnessing was historical because we were seeing Protestant and Catholic teenagers attending this festival together and not caring about their religious beliefs; something that wouldn't have been done during the time of the Troubles. I'm very happy to have captured this moment. Unfortunately, our main tour guide learned about it too late and couldn't score us tickets in time.

And now, on with the best reasons to love Ireland!

The Beauty

Anyone who's heard of Ireland and has seen pictures from any of its areas that it's a beautiful country. From its beaches and shoreline cliffs, to the wild and farmed lands, the mountain ranges, and even the barren reaches of the Burren, just about everywhere you look is breathtaking. 

Here's a section of the coastline along the Wild Atlantic Way and the Burren, west of Ballyvaughan

So instead of writing, I'm just going to let some of the many pictures I've taken speak for themselves.

Here's the famous Kylemore Abbey, but from the opposite direction the brochures display

I could post so many pictures here, but I'll try to stick with the best that I could find.

The waterfall at Glenbarrow, part of the Slieve Bloom Mountains

There are hundreds of areas you can hike that many tourists will never see because they're sticking with the more popular attractions or the scheduled events with their tour groups.

This is on the way to Hag's Head, the southernmost tip of the Cliffs of Moher

Even taking simple walks throughout the outlying areas of major cities or smaller villages can take your breath away!

Roscommon Castle, a lovely site that's bypassed by most tour companies. The town's had UFO sightings!

My first visit there I drove, and after that I only opted to take public transportation because I was too distracted by landscape.

Then again, driving also meant I could pull over whenever I wanted! Keem Bay was one such place!

Though sometimes, depending on the company you book your tour with, the guide will make unscheduled stops so that you can experience the beauty of the country that they know their groups will appreciate.

Here's a stop along the Wild Atlantic Way, not far from a filming location of Star Wars: The Last Jedi

Not to downplay the common tourist areas, they are popular for a reason! And well worth the stops!

This is the bay you pass on the way to the Giant's Causeway. That rock formation to the left is Humphrey the Camel

I have scads of pictures of these beautiful countries, and I wish I could share them all but alas, it would take too much time. So I will leave you with one last picture of the scenery, a hill above Killarney featuring part of the Ring of Kerry behind the trees.

Everyone wanted a picture there!

Its History

I did technically start with a little bit of history, but the real history of this country is everywhere you look. There are castles everywhere, and many can still be visited, while others have been converted into hotels!

This one is Dromoland Castle. Didn't stay there, but was allowed to look around!

But Ireland is more than its capitals. There's a running joke among the Irish that they're never won a war, but the resilience of this small country is incredible. Dublin City is home to so much history that there's probably a significant event that happened on every corner. This is also common in most of the major cities and even some of the smaller villages. 

You could speak to local guides, customer service representatives, and even people in the pubs and they can tell you random facts about their villages and towns that you won't easily find on the internet or in history books. One thing is certain: though there were many tragedies throughout this country's history, their resilience and survival throughout the centuries is something they are very proud of.

Northern Ireland also displays their history through murals across their cities. Many of these murals depict notable events during The Troubles, celebrate the lives of the freedom fighters who died trying to bring peace, and artwork displaying various peace icons.

Here's a cool fact: the Northern Irish consider Martin Luther King Jr. as one of their heroes!

There's also the Peace Wall in Belfast, which is comprised of several murals that people can write their names or an inspirational phrase on. Even celebrities have been known to write on this mural!

Here's an idea of how long this Peace Wall goes on for

Despite the fact that Ireland has a bit of a sad history, something notable happened just about anywhere you visit in the Republic or Northern Ireland. No matter where you go, you'll learn something new and interesting. 

The Food

Don't believe the myth that corned beef and cabbage is authentic Irish cuisine. It's not. That little tidbit aside, what exactly is Irish cuisine then?


Let's start with the traditional Irish breakfast. Most breakfasts consist of toast, beans, eggs, bacon, potatoes, black and white pudding, tomatoes, mushrooms, and bangers. The majority of the hotels you'll stay at will offer this breakfast, while the more expensive ones will offer more options, such as scones, pancakes, porridge, and waffles. The traditional Irish breakfast is filling, but after having the same thing over and over for a week, it starts to seem a little repetitive.

After that, much of their cuisine focuses on carb-heavy food. Bread is served at just about every meal, and potatoes are a major part of the Irish diet. Then their entrees tend to focus on meats and seafood. Stews made with beef or lamb are popular meals, and seafood chowders can be found throughout the country, but mostly along the coastal areas. If you aren't in the mood for stew, meat options can include pork, chicken, fish, and venison dishes. Burgers and other sandwich options are often available too.

Yes, I ate everything on this plate!

There is also a product that comes from Ireland that many Americans don't consider: dairy. With all the bread they serve, butter is also a very prominent item, and it's some of the best in the world! Of course, butter is made from cream, which comes from the Irish cows, who product some of the best dairy too! You'll enjoy one of the most refreshing glasses of milk you'll ever taste here. And there's ice cream everywhere! Even on the remote Aran Islands offshore, including Inishmore, you'll find an incredible ice cream shop!

One of the most remote ice cream shops you'll find: Paudy's!

The food here is very rich in flavor and tends to be very filling, but they also have no additives in their foods, which I suspect is why everything over there tastes better. Everything down to the coffee and orange juice to the simple greens in a salad have fuller flavor!

With such full flavors, can you imagine the desserts they have???

If you're one of those travelers who prefers to stick with American foods, or if you're vegan or lactose intolerant, there are options available to accommodate these diets. What surprised me most though were how many pizza parlors there were, and even burrito bars! 

You thought I was kidding? Found this one in Belfast!

Being a California girl who has access to some of the most authentic Mexican food north of the border, seeing Irish Mexican food in most of the major cities we visited was quite the shock! I still haven't tried it out, though I plan to the next time I go.

The food here may be filling, but when you're traveling, you're moving around so much that you usually work it off before your next meal. So enjoy that colcannon, or the fish and chips, and absorb the flavors!

The Pubs

Ever been to an Irish pub in America? Most tend to do a fine representation of an authentic Irish pub, but the one thing they can't duplicate is the feel. Most pubs in both the States and Ireland serve tasty and affordable food, have Guinness on tap along with other popular and local quaffs, have music playing, and often times a football (*coughit'scalledsocceroverherecough*) or rugby playing on a large TV screen.

Here's the interior of one such pub

The pubs in Ireland though, have something that the States can't duplicate: the environment. Irish pubs are more than just your average watering hole, it's a place where the people can enjoy themselves with their longtime, new, or unmet friends! Just about every pub you visit, even if you're all alone and stay that way, will still have a welcoming atmosphere. If you're alone in this country and start to feel alone, just find the local pub and have a drink or meal. Introvert or extrovert, just being around the people there will bring a sense of being at home.

One of the oldest pubs in Ireland, the Brazen Head, gives you an idea of how far from home you are

And fear not, you'll find a pub anywhere. One of the Irishmen I spoke to on one of my travels told me this little factoid about the towns in Ireland: "every Irish town will have a church, a post office, and a pub." There's no excuse to not go to one!

This was a pub and restaurant in Dingle we ate at. I can't remember the name, but it was down the street from the local Murphy's Ice Cream

I'm afraid I didn't have more pics of the pubs I went to, but next time I go I'll take more!

Guinness!

Guinness is probably the most recognized Irish company throughout the world, and with good reason. There is nothing like a freshly poured pint at the pub and just savoring that dark, smoky taste. It's a taste that is incapable of being captured anywhere else in the world. 

Here's a piece of Guinness artwork at the Storehouse

The canned stuff? Awful. The bottled? Better, but still not as great. Poured from a tap anywhere in the world? In the States, passable; anywhere else in the world, fairly good. But at its natural brewing home in Ireland, it's positively glorious.

You can even learn to pour your own pint at the Guinness storehouse!

As I mentioned with the food, it tends to be very filling and rich. Pairing this food with a Guinness enhances the experience of eating and drinking together in a truly unique way. It's almost as if half of the cuisine there was specifically tailored to be paired with Guinness. And no matter where you go, you'll find merch in every gift shop.

This is a table.

A Culture of Music

Did you know Ireland is the only country in the world whose national symbol is a musical instrument? It's true! Their national symbol is the harp. And since their national symbol is the harp, it would only be logical the music would play a huge part in their country.

I felt particularly proud of this pic

The pubs in Ireland tend to hire local musicians to perform in their venues, where often times they will play covers of popular music and traditional songs that everyone can sing along to. And you won't just find them in pubs, you'll find them in restaurants too, from high-scale to simple cafes.  

Didn't get this guy's name, but he was talented and very appreciative

Then you'll find the ones performing on the streets. Some of these singers and musicians will be promoting their own original music because they love what they do, or they're trying to make it in the music industry.

Yup, you'll even find xylophone players out here!

One thing is certain though: the music is an important part of life. When walking through major cities like Dublin or Galway, even if it was a slower night of the week with little social activity going on, there will always be a venue with a live musician or band playing. 

This is Banned Wagon, they were good!

You can even listen for a little while, then move on to the next venue and listen to someone different. The smaller town and villages may only have one place where a musician or band can play, but even they make sure someone is there to play at least once or twice a week.

This is Paul Jenkinson, and you can find his info here

And the music is more than just bagpipes and violin, it has the harp, the bodhrain, and the banjo, to name a few. Even if it's just one singer and/or musician, or a whole band, you're in for a treat whenever you run into these musicians.

And if you're lucky, it'll be a full concert!

The People

Every other person I've spoken to who has traveled to Ireland all agree: the people there are amazing. They are some of the friendliest people you will meet! Now keep in mind, this being the human race, not everyone will be the most cordial, but the majority will chat with you whenever you get the opportunity. 

This cool gent, Eddie Lenihan, is a professional storyteller with several books published!

You do need to be careful about the people you talk with though, because if you're not paying attention, you can find yourself talking with them anywhere from 15 minutes to 2 full hours! Not kidding! Once I went down to the hotel lobby to pick up something, and wound up chatting with one of the hotel staff for about 20 minutes. He told me a bit about the town we were in, and that one of the musicians from a popular Irish band, The Pogues, had stayed there two weeks prior. I'd only meant to be gone for 2 minutes! Then there was the first time I went to King John's Castle in Limerick, my sister and I chatted with one of the historical re-enactors, and we were there for the 2 hours!

It was even his idea to pose for this pic!

Regardless, they're still wonderful people. Another time worth mentioning was when I was taking the Luas to the hostel I was staying in, and I had a full suitcase, a recently purchased duffel bag (I went a little nuts shopping this particular trip), and had my backpack. The Luas car was completely full, but when I let the people standing by the door know I'd reached my stop, they all made sure I had the room to leave without being stuck on the car! And yet another, when I took a taxi to the airport, the driver took the time to find me a quicker route since there was morning traffic, which turned out to be a more scenic route that he gave me a commentary on the whole time. I left him a good tip for that!

There aren't many countries in the world that you can visit where the people are one of the main things that stand out. They tell amazing stories, know how to have fun, and often times, even look out for you. An Aussie who was on one of the trips I was on, while walking back to our hotel in Galway around midnight, told me that a woman drove up beside her and asked her if she needed a ride anywhere. She was fine, but was touched that this sweet Irishwoman was concerned for her safety.

They also have a wonderful sense of humor. Most of the clapboards you'll see out in front of restaurants will have something clever or silly written on them. 

Here's an example outside the Teeling Distillery

Or, if you visit a dinner experience, such as at the Merry Ploughboys, you'll find a placemat with these rules of Irish culture here:

Sorry about the shadow!

Honestly, if you make it through a trip to Ireland without at least a 10-minute chat with a local, you have missed out.

And the one thing I don't like: The Roads!

The roads in Ireland are insane. The freeway/expressway/motorway system they use has tolls just about everywhere that need to be paid within 24 hours or you can incur a fine. Then you have the rural roads, which are super narrow. And if you're a regular car going one way and you come across a bus coming the other way? You need to get out of the way! And if there's nowhere for you to pull over, you need to reverse until you find a place where the bus can pass you! And if there are other cars behind you, they all know the drill and have to do it with you. It's nuts.

Here's one of the roads I drove: Corkscrew Hill. Name says it all!

The drivers aren't too bad, and it's driving etiquette to wave at a driver you're passing on the roadways. But the speeds on the rural roads can be super slow or a dare to see if you'll actually do it at the posted speed. Taking a guided tour or traveling by railway may be more practical in the long run, but having the freedom to explore off the beaten paths in a car is a special experience. Too bad it includes those roads!

Ready to Go Yet?

I would love to spend more time in Northern Ireland the next time I visit (also so I could do it better justice in a blog such as this one), and plan to do my own itinerary to make sure I see everything. In the meantime, I hope I've done both countries a service in explaining everything I love about them.

Though if I could make just one must-visit location, make sure to stop by a Murphy's Ice Cream location at least once!

You won't regret it!

Since I can't return to Ireland right away, my next blog post will be on a local trip I'll be taking. One of the things I've been meaning to do for a while is try out an AirBnB, and am taking the opportunity of trying one out! 

Until next time, start planning for your next trip!

Gifs courtesy of Giphy